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Surfing Waves from the Ocean to the River with the Serre-Green-Naghdi Equations
Indexado
WoS WOS:001030385900006
Scopus SCOPUS_ID:85164267164
DOI 10.1061/JHEND8.HYENG-13487
Año 2023
Tipo artículo de investigación

Citas Totales

Autores Afiliación Chile

Instituciones Chile

% Participación
Internacional

Autores
Afiliación Extranjera

Instituciones
Extranjeras


Abstract



A wide variety of hydraulic and coastal flows can be modeled using shallow water theories, where the so-called Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) equations constitute a fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive wave theory that has been successfully applied in fluvial and maritime contexts. In the present contribution, we show that SGN models with wave-breaking parameterizations can reproduce challenging nonlinear processes in the surf and swash zones including wave-wave interactions and infragravity wave generation from a narrow-band swell spectrum. The excellent performance of the model motivates us to explore its application to a simplified shallow bar-built river configuration where surf zone-generated infragravity waves may propagate upstream the river. We show that long-wave penetration is controlled by the Froude number over the bar, and that these nonlinear long waves may give rise to a solitonic dynamics. The power spectral density (PSD) signature of free surface time series with a slope of ∼f-1 in the infragravity range is consistent with the latter, as also found in field observations. Transferring of energy into lower frequencies is observed in the numerical experiment as long waves propagate upstream; nevertheless, low-frequency energy also cascades back into the swell energy band. Standard linear Fourier analysis may fail in showing the hidden solitonic dynamics, so nonlinear techniques would need to be applied to fully elucidate the fate of the long-wave energy while propagating upstream of river mouths.

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Disciplinas de Investigación



WOS
Engineering, Civil
Engineering, Mechanical
Water Resources
Scopus
Civil And Structural Engineering
Water Science And Technology
Mechanical Engineering
SciELO
Sin Disciplinas

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Publicaciones WoS (Ediciones: ISSHP, ISTP, AHCI, SSCI, SCI), Scopus, SciELO Chile.

Colaboración Institucional



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Autores - Afiliación



Ord. Autor Género Institución - País
1 CIENFUEGOS-CARRASCO, RODRIGO ALBERTO Hombre Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile - Chile

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Financiamiento



Fuente
CIGIDEN
Centro de Investigacion para la Gestion Integrada del Riesgo de Desastres (CIGIDEN)
Centro de Investigación para la Gestión Integrada del Riesgo de Desastres

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Agradecimientos



Agradecimiento
The reported surf zone wave experiment was conducted in the facilities of the Instituto Nacional de Hidráulica (INH) in Chile; I am grateful for all the technical support the INH staff provided during the study. The work done by Maricarmen Guerra and Leonardo Duarte in the laboratory during the undergraduate project of Leonardo is to be commended and recognized. I also acknowledge discussions and exchanges that have taken place over the years on infragravity waves with Professor Eric Barthélemy and Dr. Hervé Michallet from the Laboratoire des Écoulements Géphysiques et Industriels (LEGI) in Grenoble, France, and with Dr. Rafael Almar from the Laboratoire d’Études en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales (LEGOS) in Toulouse, France. I also acknowledge the careful reviews and constructive suggestions made by the two anonymous reviewers, and the associated and chief journal editors. This work has been partially funded by the Centro de Investigación para la Gestión Integrada del Riesgo de Desastres (CIGIDEN), through the grant ANID/FONDAP/1522A0005 and by the ANID/ FONDEF/ID22I10087 project.
The reported surf zone wave experiment was conducted in the facilities of the Instituto Nacional de Hidraulica (INH) in Chile; I am grateful for all the technical support the INH staff provided during the study. The work done by Maricarmen Guerra and Leonardo Duarte in the laboratory during the undergraduate project of Leonardo is to be commended and recognized. I also acknowledge discussions and exchanges that have taken place over the years on infragravity waves with Professor Eric Barthelemy and Dr. Herve Michallet from the Laboratoire des Ecoulements Gephysiques et Industriels (LEGI) in Grenoble, France, and with Dr. Rafael Almar from the Laboratoire d'Etudes en Geophysique et Oceanographie Spatiales (LEGOS) in Toulouse, France. I also acknowledge the careful reviews and constructive suggestions made by the two anonymous reviewers, and the associated and chief journal editors. This work has been partially funded by the Centro de Investigacion para la Gestion Integrada del Riesgo de Desastres (CIGIDEN), through the grant ANID/FONDAP/1522A0005 and by the ANID/FONDEF/ID22I10087 project.

Muestra la fuente de financiamiento declarada en la publicación.