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| DOI | 10.1016/J.CSR.2021.104483 | ||||
| Año | 2021 | ||||
| Tipo | artículo de investigación |
Citas Totales
Autores Afiliación Chile
Instituciones Chile
% Participación
Internacional
Autores
Afiliación Extranjera
Instituciones
Extranjeras
Ripples and small-scale bedforms are ubiquitous in shallow water environments under the combined action of currents and waves. Small scale processes linked to their formation and migration are interconnected with sediment transport at larger scales (e.g. tens of metres to kilometres), both resulting in and being affected by large scale sediment transport and geomorphological evolution. The lower shoreface provides a key link between coasts and continental shelves, but the contribution of ripples and small-scale bedforms to sediment transport in this region has yet to be fully addressed. This work presents a study of sediment dynamic processes on the lower shoreface in the presence of small-scale bedforms. Observations were made during the winter of 2017 on the lower shoreface of Perranporth Beach, which is in the south west of the UK and exposed to Atlantic waves. The analysis of morphological expressions and the variability of ripples under waves, currents and wave-current conditions are assessed. Ripple morphology and associated dynamics are analysed for their potential contribution to the exchange of sediment between the lower and the upper shoreface. In the present study it was observed that even though ripples were evolving depending on the wave-current forcing, little ripple migration was observed due to low wave skewness. The implication is that ripple migration and bedload transport are only a small contribution to onshore sediment transport under low to moderate energy conditions. However, during more energetic conditions, ripples were washed out and the wave skewness increased, resulting in onshore sediment transport under a sheet flow regime. This suggests that ripple formation and migration can have little impact on the cross-shore supply of sediment from the lower shoreface to the upper shoreface and that more energetic wave conditions are required to significantly transport sediment towards the beach.
| Ord. | Autor | Género | Institución - País |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Guerrero, Q. | - |
Inst Ciencies Mar ICM CSIC - España
CSIC - Instituto de Ciencias del Mar (ICM) - España |
| 2 | Williams, Megan | Mujer |
Natl Oceanog Ctr - Reino Unido
Universidad Técnica Federico Santa María - Chile National Oceanography Centre - Reino Unido National Oceanography Centre Southampton - Reino Unido |
| 3 | Guillen, J. | - |
Inst Ciencies Mar ICM CSIC - España
CSIC - Instituto de Ciencias del Mar (ICM) - España |
| 4 | Lichtman, I. D. | - |
Natl Oceanog Ctr - Reino Unido
National Oceanography Centre - Reino Unido National Oceanography Centre Southampton - Reino Unido |
| 5 | Thorne, Peter D. | Hombre |
Natl Oceanog Ctr - Reino Unido
National Oceanography Centre - Reino Unido National Oceanography Centre Southampton - Reino Unido |
| 6 | Amoudry, Laurent | Hombre |
Natl Oceanog Ctr - Reino Unido
National Oceanography Centre - Reino Unido National Oceanography Centre Southampton - Reino Unido |
| Fuente |
|---|
| CIGIDEN |
| Ministerio de Economía y Competitividad |
| Fondo Nacional de Desarrollo Científico y Tecnológico |
| Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness |
| National Research Center for Integrated Natural Disaster Management |
| Chilean FONDECYT Project |
| National Research Center for Integrated Natural Disaster Management (CIGIDEN) |
| Natural Environment Research Council |
| Family Process Institute |
| Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness in the frame of the project FORMED |
| Geoff Hargreaves |
| NOC-NERC |
| NOC |
| VORF |
| Agradecimiento |
|---|
| QG was also supported by a mobility grant to develop short stays at the National Oceanography Centre, Liverpool (NOC-NERC) (ref: EEBB-I-17-11989) from the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness. The authors wish to acknowledge funding from the Natural Environment Research Council to the BLUEcoast project (grant numbers NE/015894/1 and NE/015894/2) . MEW was partially supported by Chilean Fondecyt project 11191077 and the National Research Center for Integrated Natural Disaster Management (CIGIDEN, ANID/FONDAP 15110017) . |
| QG was also supported by a mobility grant to develop short stays at the National Oceanography Centre, Liverpool (NOC-NERC) (ref: EEBB-I-17-11989) from the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness. The authors wish to acknowledge funding from the Natural Environment Research Council to the BLUEcoast project (grant numbers NE/015894/1 and NE/015894/2) . MEW was partially supported by Chilean Fondecyt project 11191077 and the National Research Center for Integrated Natural Disaster Management (CIGIDEN, ANID/FONDAP 15110017) . |
| QG was supported by an FPI grant (ref. BES-2013-066261 ) from the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness in the frame of the project FORMED (CGL2012-33989). QG was also supported by a mobility grant to develop short stays at the National Oceanography Centre, Liverpool (NOC-NERC) (ref: EEBB-I-17-11989) from the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness . The authors wish to acknowledge funding from the Natural Environment Research Council to the BLUEcoast project (grant numbers NE/015894/1 and NE/015894/2 ). MEW was partially supported by Chilean Fondecyt project 11191077 and the National Research Center for Integrated Natural Disaster Management (CIGIDEN, ANID/FONDAP 15110017). |
| QG was supported by an FPI grant (ref. BES-2013-066261 ) from the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness in the frame of the project FORMED (CGL2012-33989). QG was also supported by a mobility grant to develop short stays at the National Oceanography Centre, Liverpool (NOC-NERC) (ref: EEBB-I-17-11989) from the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness . The authors wish to acknowledge funding from the Natural Environment Research Council to the BLUEcoast project (grant numbers NE/015894/1 and NE/015894/2 ). MEW was partially supported by Chilean Fondecyt project 11191077 and the National Research Center for Integrated Natural Disaster Management (CIGIDEN, ANID/FONDAP 15110017). |