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| DOI | 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000022 | ||||
| Año | 2010 | ||||
| Tipo | artículo de investigación |
Citas Totales
Autores Afiliación Chile
Instituciones Chile
% Participación
Internacional
Autores
Afiliación Extranjera
Instituciones
Extranjeras
We investigate the ability of a ID fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking to reproduce surf zone waves in terms of wave height and nonlinear intraphase properties such as asymmetry and skewness. An alternative approach for wave-breaking parameterization including roller effects through diffusive-type terms on both, the mass conservation and momentum equations is developed and validated on regular wave and solitary wave experiments as an attempt to improve wave height and left-right asymmetry estimates. The new approach is able to reproduce wave height decay, and intraphase nonlinear properties within the entire surf zone of spilling breakers without requiring temporal evolution of model parameters.
| Ord. | Autor | Género | Institución - País |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | CIENFUEGOS-CARRASCO, RODRIGO ALBERTO | Hombre |
Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile - Chile
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| 2 | Barthelemy, Eric | Hombre |
Inst Natl Polytech Grenoble - Francia
Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels - Francia Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels (LEGI) - Francia |
| 3 | Bonneton, P. | Hombre |
Univ Bordeaux 1 - Francia
Université de Bordeaux - Francia |
| Fuente |
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| FONDECYT |
| School of Engineering |
| CNRS/INSU |
| Institut National Polytechnique de Grenoble |
| French Ministry of Education, and ECOS-Conicyt Research |
| Agradecimiento |
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| This work has been supported by FONDECYT Research Grant No. 11060312 and was also performed within the framework of the IDAO/PATOM program (Interactions et Dynamique de l'Atmosphere et de l'Ocean) sponsored by the CNRS/INSU. This work was accomplished during a sabbatical leave of Professor Eric Barthelemy at the Departamento de Ingenieria Hidraulica y Ambiental, Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile (PUC). Financial support from the School of Engineering (PLIC), the Institut National Polytechnique de Grenoble, the French Ministry of Education, and ECOS-Conicyt Research Grant No. C07U01 is gratefully acknowledged. |