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| DOI | 10.1016/J.COASTALENG.2011.12.004 | ||||
| Año | 2012 | ||||
| Tipo | artículo de investigación |
Citas Totales
Autores Afiliación Chile
Instituciones Chile
% Participación
Internacional
Autores
Afiliación Extranjera
Instituciones
Extranjeras
Breaker height is a key parameter of nearshore processes and the demand for a continuous remote estimator is pressing. In this paper we present a standalone remote video-based method that estimates wave height at the breakpoint. Individual breaking events are first identified from changes in optical properties and wave height is further derived from the optical signature at the onset of breaking. An extended validation is performed using a dense wave basin dataset. The results show the ability of the method to measure individual breaker heights (9% of mean error, 18% RMS). In addition, the unique combination of in situ and remotely sensed data allows the estimation of two other breaking-related parameters, the height-to-depth ratio and wave front face slope, which show a substantial amount of dispersion. Because nearshore video systems are rapidly spreading over world coasts, this low-cost remote breaker height estimator should encounter large interest in coastal engineering studies. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
| Ord. | Autor | Género | Institución - País |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Almar, Rafael | Hombre |
Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile - Chile
IRD UMR LEGOS - Francia LEGOS Laboratoire d'Etudes en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales - Francia Laboratoire d'Etudes en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales - Francia |
| 2 | CIENFUEGOS-CARRASCO, RODRIGO ALBERTO | Hombre |
Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile - Chile
|
| 3 | CATALAN-MONDACA, PATRICIO ANDRES | Hombre |
Universidad Técnica Federico Santa María - Chile
|
| 4 | Michallet, H. | Hombre |
CNRS UJF G INP - Francia
Universite Grenoble Alpes - Francia |
| 5 | Castelle, Bruno | Hombre |
Univ Bordeaux 1 - Francia
Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - Francia |
| 6 | Bonneton, P. | Hombre |
Univ Bordeaux 1 - Francia
Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - Francia |
| 7 | Marieu, Vincent | Hombre |
Univ Bordeaux 1 - Francia
Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux - Francia |
| Fuente |
|---|
| Project Fondecyt |
| Fondo Nacional de Desarrollo Científico y Tecnológico |
| Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile |
| Fondo Nacional de Desarrollo CientÃfico, Tecnológico y de Innovación Tecnológica |
| Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile |
| project BARCAN (LEFE/INSU) |
| project BARBEC |
| Agradecimiento |
|---|
| The laboratory work was undertaken within the framework of the Project MODUT (RELIEFS/INSU, SHOM-DGA). RA funded by project FONDECYT No 3110030. B.C. funded by project BARBEC (ANR 2010 JCJC 602 01). H.M. funded by project BARCAN (LEFE/INSU). The first author would also like to thank the post-doctoral fellowship awarded by the Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile. |
| The laboratory work was undertaken within the framework of the Project MODLIT (RELIEFS/INSU, SHOM-DGA). R.A. funded by project FONDECYT No 3110030 . B.C. funded by project BARBEC (ANR 2010 JCJC 602 01). H.M. funded by project BARCAN (LEFE/INSU). The first author would also like to thank the post-doctoral fellowship awarded by the Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile. |